The New H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Is No Mess, No Logos, No Indices, Just A Great Looking Watch
By: Mark Kauzlarich
Looks like smoked salmon is back on the menu, boys.
Not long after the discontinuation of Moser’s Smoked Salmon Streamliner from last year, the tropical-brown griffé dial is back in a new perpetual calendar from the brand. But if you were worried that the dial would be marred by finicky and unsightly indices or even a logo, you don’t know the direction Moser has been heading of late.
This is Moser’s Perpetual Calendar Concept, which means no indices of any kind, making it one of the more difficult perpetual calendars to read at a glance, but all things considered, it’s not that hard when you get used to it. The date is obvious and large, but also angled, which required a bit of ingenious design from the brand. The leap year indicator is at the back (because how often do you need that anyway?). The power reserve (for the hand-wound double barrel HMC 812) is 168 hours and indicated at 10 o’clock on the dial. The months are shown with a small central hand in red and white that points to the number of the month you’re in (or at least, to the corresponding hour for that month number – you get what I mean, right?).
This is an otherwise quintessential Streamliner. The sleek, stainless steel case measures 42.3mm by 11mm (without the crystal, and while the full thickness wasn’t supplied I’d say to add another 1.2mm or so). The watch will be available for the next 12 months only, running $54,900. While it’s a higher price point than last year’s basic smoked salmon release, that one was in higher demand than Moser could produce, so if you’re still hungry for salmon, better get your orders in fast.
What We Think
It’s that time of year. Or rather, that time of every four years. Leap day is coming! So it makes sense that Moser would try to get their newest perpetual calendar out ahead of leap day. Who knows, maybe even a few of these watches are sitting at retail partners now waiting to be bought in time to watch the instantaneous “flash” date change to February 29th.
I’ve been enjoying watching Moser continue to strip down its designs and focus on the core of shape, dial, and movement construction. Why this very simplified perpetual calendar seems so confusing to me each time I reacquaint myself with it, I’ll never know. In reality, it’s ingenious and wonderful, plus a perfect excuse to just focus on the “smoked salmon” dial.
I might have said this last time, but I don’t really feel like I get a lot of “smoked salmon” vibes on this watch. Maybe it’s more like a dark roasted wood, with the grain texture, but regardless it’s not a common color choice on the market and definitely not a watch that’s trying to be anything else beside just plain tasty.
The Basics
Brand: H. Moser & Cie.Model: Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Concept Smoked SalmonReference Number: 6812-1201
Diameter: 42.3mmThickness: 11mmCase Material: Stainless steelDial Color: Smoked Salmon grifféIndexes: NoneLume: Hour and minute hands with Globolight® insertsWater Resistance: 120mStrap/Bracelet: Stainless steel
The Movement
Caliber: HMC 812 Manufacture calibreFunctions: Hours, minutes, seconds, perpetual calendar with date and month, power reserve, leap year indicatorDiameter: 34mmThickness: 6.3mmPower Reserve: 168 hoursWinding: ManualFrequency: 18,000 bphJewels: 33Chronometer Certified: NoAdditional Details: Double barrel; Moser teeth for all wheels and pinions, modular interchangeable Moser escapement; original Straumann® hairspring; balance bridge, train wheel bridge, barrel bridge, and escapement plate with anthracite PVD finish; main plate, stop lever, and week wheel bridge with microblasted laser finish and anthracite rhodium plating
Pricing & Availability
Price: $54,900 USDAvailability: NowLimited Edition: Made for only one year
For more, click here.
